When a piece of jewelry is described as "gold-plated", "vermeil" or "solid gold", it's easy to get lost. These three terms don't mean the same thing in composition, price or durability. Yet they are often confused, sometimes even by less scrupulous sellers. This guide explains, without unnecessary jargon, what each term really means so you can choose your jewelry with full knowledge.
Real gold (solid gold): the timeless reference
Solid gold refers to jewelry made of a gold alloy throughout its thickness, not just on the surface. Its purity is expressed in karats:
- 24 karat: 99.9% pure gold, too soft for everyday jewelry.
- 18 karat: 75% gold, the fine jewelry standard and a good balance between shine and strength.
- 14 karat: 58.5% gold, more durable and widely used in the United States.
- 9 karat: 37.5% gold, the entry level of "real gold".
Solid gold never tarnishes, never flakes and can be reshaped or melted down. It is as much a family asset as a piece of jewelry. The trade-off: a much higher price, tied to the price of gold, often out of reach for a varied everyday collection.
Gold-plated: accessible elegance
Gold plating means applying a thin layer of gold to a base metal (brass, copper or stainless steel), usually by electroplating or physical vapor deposition (PVD). In France, the term "plaqué or" (gold-plated) is regulated by law: it requires a minimum of 3 microns of gold of at least 20 karats.
This is where the quality of the base metal makes all the difference. Gold plating on brass or copper tends to oxidize with moisture and sweat, which speeds up wear of the gold layer and can eventually turn the skin green. By contrast, gold plating on stainless steel — as with every Origfay creation — benefits from the natural corrosion resistance of steel, which significantly extends the life of the piece and makes it hypoallergenic.
Why gold plating on stainless steel changes everything
Contrary to popular belief, not all "gold-plated" jewelry is equal. Quality depends on three factors:
- The thickness of the gold layer: the thicker it is (ideally 2 to 5 microns), the longer the layer lasts.
- The plating process: PVD (vacuum deposition) bonds better than traditional electroplating.
- The base metal: 316L stainless steel, which we use for all our creations, does not oxidize and does not react with the skin, unlike brass.
Read our dedicated article to understand in detail what 316L stainless steel is and why we chose it as the base for all our creations.
Vermeil: the middle ground between silver and gold
Vermeil refers to solid silver jewelry (usually 925, known as "sterling silver") covered with a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns, also regulated by law in France. Vermeil offers a nice balance: more affordable than solid gold, with a precious base (silver) that is nobler than a common metal.
Its weak point, however, is the silver itself, which tends to oxidize and darken over time, especially when exposed to moisture, perfume or cosmetics. Vermeil therefore needs more regular care than gold plating on stainless steel.
Comparison table
| Criterion | Solid gold | Vermeil | Gold-plated (stainless steel) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Composition | Gold alloy throughout | 925 silver + thin gold layer | Stainless steel + thin gold layer |
| Durability | Very high, for life | Medium, oxidizes over time | High, oxidation-resistant |
| Hypoallergenic | Yes | Generally yes | Yes (nickel-free 316L steel) |
| Care | Minimal | Regular (anti-tarnish) | Minimal to moderate |
| Price | High | Mid-range | Affordable |
Which one for which use?
- For jewelry worn every day, including in the shower or pool: gold plating on stainless steel is the most durable for daily wear.
- For a meaningful gift on a small budget: gold plating lets you build a matching set (necklace, bracelet, ring) without breaking the bank.
- For an heirloom piece or an investment: solid gold remains the reference, especially for wedding bands or pieces meant to last for generations.
- For sensitive skin: 316L stainless steel, the base of our creations, is one of the most hypoallergenic options on the market, with no nickel release.
How to make each type of jewelry last
Whatever metal you choose, a few simple habits keep your jewelry shining longer:
- Take your jewelry off before showering, swimming or going in the sea (especially vermeil).
- Avoid direct contact with perfume, creams and household products.
- Store pieces separately, away from air and moisture, ideally in individual pouches.
- Clean them regularly with a soft, dry cloth.
To learn more, read our complete guide to caring for gold-plated jewelry.
Frequently asked questions
Does gold plating tarnish over time?
Quality gold plating on stainless steel, like the one Origfay uses, resists oxidation far better than gold plating on brass or copper. With basic care, it keeps its shine for several years.
Is vermeil better than gold-plated?
Neither is objectively "better": vermeil has a more precious base (silver) but needs more care against tarnishing. Gold plating on stainless steel is more durable for everyday wear and hypoallergenic.
Can you wear gold-plated jewelry in the shower?
It's never recommended in the long run, but quality gold plating on stainless steel handles occasional water exposure much better than gold plating on brass.
How long does gold-plated jewelry last?
With proper care, quality gold-plated stainless steel jewelry can keep its shine for several years, compared with just a few months for low-end plating on common metal.
